Category: Sun Protection

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The Power of Sunscreen

Skinsmart Sunscreen Sale

It’s widely understood that excessive sun exposure increases the risk of skin cancer. Skin cancer isn’t just potentially deadly, especially in the case of melanoma, but it can also result in scarring and the need for numerous skincare treatments. On top of that, sun exposure accelerates visible ageing—think wrinkles, dark spots, and loss of skin elasticity—issues that affect everyone, not just those with fair skin.

But, while the sun’s rays aren’t all bad (sunlight boosts mood, helps with Vitamin D production, and can even support immune function), there’s no denying the damaging effects of unprotected sun exposure. This is why sunscreen is an essential part of any skincare routine, especially for those who love spending time outdoors, like many South Africans do.

The Sunscreen Debate: What’s the Latest?

There’s been a lot of confusion lately about sunscreens, with many questioning their safety and effectiveness. However, the overwhelming scientific consensus is clear: sunscreens are essential for skin protection. In fact, research has shown that sunscreen use has contributed to an overall reduction in skin cancer incidence.

Let’s tackle some of the most common questions and controversies surrounding sunscreen use.

Sunscreen and Vitamin D: Myths vs. Reality

One of the biggest concerns about sunscreen is its impact on Vitamin D production. Some studies have suggested that sunscreen may block Vitamin D synthesis, but recent research refutes this. A 2019 review in the British Journal of Dermatology found that sunscreens don’t significantly impact Vitamin D levels. The study that originally raised concerns used artificial light sources that don’t accurately reflect real-world exposure.

While it’s true that sunscreen reduces UVB exposure, which is needed for Vitamin D production, studies show that most people still produce enough Vitamin D even while using sunscreen. Additionally, you can supplement your Vitamin D intake through diet or supplements without putting your skin at risk of cancer.

Sunscreen and the Environment: What You Should Know

The environmental impact of sunscreens has been a hot topic in recent years. Ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate have been found to accumulate in water sources and may contribute to coral bleaching.

Many sunscreen manufacturers are moving toward mineral (physical) sunscreens containing ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are better for the environment and suitable for sensitive skin types, including children.

Are Sunscreens Endocrine Disruptors?

There’s also concern about sunscreens acting as endocrine disruptors, particularly oxybenzone. While it’s true that oxybenzone has shown endocrine-disrupting effects in animal studies, the amount needed to pose a risk to humans is unrealistically high. No significant harm has been found in humans from regular sunscreen use.

Does Higher SPF Really Offer More Protection?

One of the most common questions we get is about SPF. While SPF is only a measure of protection against UVB rays (responsible for sunburn), higher SPF sunscreens do provide greater protection, but the difference is not always as drastic as it seems. An SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays, whereas SPF 50 blocks 98% and SPF 100 blocks 99%. The key is applying sunscreen generously and regularly.

In real-world conditions, people rarely apply enough sunscreen to achieve the full SPF protection. Applying sunscreen correctly (2mg/cm²) and reapplying every 2-4 hours is crucial to maintain maximum protection.

Why Tinted Sunscreens Are a Game Changer

Did you know that visible light can also cause skin damage, such as hyperpigmentation? Tinted sunscreens offer protection against this, as they contain iron oxide, which helps shield your skin from visible light. This makes them particularly beneficial for those prone to conditions like melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Plus, tinted sunscreens are more suitable for all skin tones and can be worn without the dreaded white cast of traditional sunscreens.

The New Era of Sunscreens: DNA Repair and Early Skin Cancer Treatment

Exciting new advancements are being made in sunscreen technology. Some active sunscreens now contain DNA repair enzymes like photolyase and endonuclease, which help repair UV-induced DNA damage in skin cells. These sunscreens are not only great at preventing further damage, but they’re also showing promise in helping reverse early signs of skin cancer and reduce photo-ageing.

The Bottom Line: Sunscreens Are Still Your Best Bet

Despite ongoing research and concerns about specific ingredients, sunscreens remain the best tool for protecting your skin from harmful UV rays, preventing skin cancer, and fighting premature ageing. As sunscreen technology continues to evolve, we can expect even more effective and environmentally friendly solutions to emerge.

Time to Top Up Your Sunscreen! 🧴

As we step into a new year, it’s a perfect time to replenish your sunscreen supply and stay protected under the sun. To help you stock up, enjoy [Discount Code: SUN2025] for a special discount on our range of sunscreens, available exclusively to our subscribers. SHOP NOW!

Stay safe, stay protected, and enjoy the outdoors responsibly!

References:

  • The effect of sunscreen on Vitamin D: a review – British Journal of Dermatology, 2019
  • High-SPF sunscreens (SPF ≥70) may provide ultraviolet protection – Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology
  • Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation – Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology
  • DNA repair enzymes in sunscreens and their impact on photoageing – Systematic Review

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Sunscreens

Sunscreens - shedding new light on an old topic

SHEDDING NEW LIGHT ON AN OLD TOPIC.

Are there any good reasons NOT to wear sunscreen? Surely not…

We know well enough of the dangers of skin cancer, which may not only be deadly as the dreaded melanoma, but also disfiguring and requiring numerous visits to the doctor’s office for multiple interventions. In addition, excessive sun exposure causes photo ageing and hyperpigmentation which is distressing to women and men alike.

Sunlight is certainly not all bad, and generally induces a sense of well-being, decreases the appetite, improves libido and assists with the synthesis of vitamin D.  South Africans are a sun loving society that embraces an outdoor lifestyle. While moderate and responsible exposure to the sun is good for your well-being, it is not possible to tan without damaging skin cells, leading to accelerated ageing, and increasing your risk of skin cancer.

As we head into 2021 hoping for a better year than the last, I thought we would relook at some of the controversies surrounding sunscreens and shed some light on new innovations and considerations concerning sunscreen use.

With conflicting information in the media many people are confused about whether they should be wearing sunscreen and uncertain of the product to choose. This can lead to them wearing no sunscreen at all. Let’s set the record straight.

The first point to make clear is that there is overwhelming scientific evidence that excessive sun exposure causes skin cancer and methods of sun protection including sunscreens can prevent this. Recent sunscreen studies conducted in Australia estimate that the current sunscreen recommendations have decreased the incidence of skin cancer by 10-15 %.

Sunscreen and Vitamin D

Possibly the current biggest controversy surrounding sunscreen use relates to Vitamin D deficiency. Reports have been conflicting. A review article published in the British journal of Dermatology last year sought to evaluate the available studies and concluded that there was not enough evidence to suggest that sunscreens decreased the production of Vitamin D. The original study that made this claim was done with an artificial light source different to what people are normally exposed to in the environment. Subsequent studies with real life circumstances could not prove a decrease in Vitamin D production with sunscreen use.

The only limitation of this review was that it didn’t take into account the newer very high protection sunscreens currently being used.

Remember that sunscreen does not fully prevent exposure to sunlight. To get maximum sun protection from a sunscreen one would need to apply 2mg/cm squared and reapply every 2-4 hours. Most people do not wear sunscreen in large enough quantities. Some of the analysis even suggested that there is still enough UV R exposure to produce adequate vitamin D even while using sunscreen.

Interestingly there are some people who do not produce enough Vitamin D even with large amounts of sun exposure, and some people with minimal sun exposure with normal Vitamin D levels. There seem to be as yet unidentified factors influencing Vitamin D synthesis.

More importantly you can get enough Vitamin D from oral supplements and diet without exposing yourself to an increased risk of skin cancer.

Sunscreen and its impact on the environment

UV filters oxybenzone,  camphor derivates, octocrylene, and octinoxate  have caused much recent controversy as they have been shown to accumulate in the water sources of the world and suspected of being responsible for the bleaching of coral reefs. They are not easily removed by conventional water treatment methods. As a result of this several states in the united states have banned these sunscreen ingredients. Of note is that the study that claimed the adverse effects on coral reefs used much larger concentration of oxybenzone than is actually found in even the busiest beaches in the world. However this is certainly a warning and has led sunscreen manufacturers to seeking alternative ingredients in their formulations.

It doesn’t however warrant a blanket boycott of all sunscreens. If anything, there is a shift towards using more physical or mineral blockers in sunscreens like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide which is recommended for sensitive skin and children.

Sunscreen and its relation to Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia

On that note physical blockers or mineral sunscreens have also been controversially linked to frontal fibrosing alopecia which is a condition that is caused by progressive fibrosis of the hair follicles of the frontal hairline resulting in hair loss and a receding hairline. Small quantities of titanium supposedly from titanium dioxide containing mineral sunscreens, have been found in the hair shafts of patients with frontal fibrosing alopecia. There is no conclusive proof yet that the sunscreens are the actual cause for frontal fibrosing alopecia.

Is sunscreen an endocrine disrupter?

Oxybenzone has been identified as an endocrine disrupter affecting the endocrine systems in rats and fish.  But for this to affect humans, one would need to apply an unrealistically large amount of oxybenzone to the skin for decades to absorb the quantities of avobenzone needed to cause any real danger. To date there have been no proven significant negative effects from oxybenzone in humans.

What about SPF ? The burning question is whether a higher SPF provides greater sun protection?

To recap, SPF or sun protection factor is actually only a measure of protection against UVB. An SPF of 30 means that you will be able to stay in the sun 30 times longer without burning, than you would be able to without wearing the sunscreen. This does not equate to 30 min and varies amongst individuals, as we all burn at different rates depending on our skin type.

SPF is measured in a test environment which is nothing like real life.It does not take into account sweating, environmental factors and the varying application by the sunscreen user.

In a test environment sunscreen is applied very thickly, at 2mg of sunscreen per square centimetre which is the minimum needed to get the protection labelled on the sunscreen.

Several investigations  have found that sunscreen users rarely apply sun screen adequately and evenly.The quantity that is actually applied by people is closer to 0.5mg per square centimetre. So we are never really getting the same protection as on the label.

Using a lower SPF sunscreen at quantities lower than 2mg per square centimetre actually reduces the overall sun protection factor.

However a recent study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatologists (JAAD) confirmed that realistic usage of a higher SPF sunscreen of SPF 70 and above may provide enough sun protection to protect against photo ageing and skin cancer.

Another point worth emphasising is that while it is true that SPF15 filters out 93.3% of UVB, SPF30 96.7% and SPF50 98.3%, making it seem that there is very little benefit in using the higher SPF, one needs to consider that only the amount of UV light reaching your skin is important. If you look at it this way then SPF 15 allows 6.7% of UVB to reach your skin while SPF 50 allows only 1.7% of UVB. Its not about what you are filtering out, but rather about what you are allowing to reach your skin.

Why should you consider tinted sunscreen?

Tinted sunscreens containing ‘light reflectors’ protect against visible light which causes erythema in light-skinned individuals and hyperpigmentation in dark-skinned individuals. Visible light is the light that we see and makes up 44 % of the electromagnetic spectrum reaching the earth. Conventional broad spectrum sunscreens do not protect against visible light. For a sunscreen to do this it must be opaque and visible on the skin. The newer generation of physical sunscreens made with nanotechnology use small particle sizes of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to decrease the “white” appearance of the sunscreen and make them more aesthetically suitable for use. Ironically these fine particles can no longer reflect visible light. Tinted sunscreens containing shades of iron oxide and titanium dioxide in various combination are not only able to blend with different skin tones, but are also able to reflect visible light. In this way they can protect against disorders of hyperpigmentation like melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and lichen planus pigmentosus.  Iron oxide pigment can also be found in tinted powder or brush on sunscreens which can be conveniently reapplied during the day.

Sunscreens treating early skin cancer

The latest research in sun screen technology has seen the development of a new generation of ‘active sunscreens’ containing DNA repair enzymes. These sunscreens have very high SPF and are in the unique position to be seen as potential treatment of early skin cancer (not melanoma) rather than just preventative treatment like regular sunscreens.  Skin cells have their own mechanisms to repair DNA damage caused by UVR, but with excessive sun exposure these mechanisms are overwhelmed which can lead to permanent DNA mutations causing skin cancer and photo ageing.  Scientific studies have shown that sunscreens containing photolyase and endonuclease can enhance the DNA repair mechanisms in damaged skin cells and reduce the lesions of early skin cancer in sun damaged skin. These novel sunscreens may also protect against photo ageing and prevent the breakdown of collagen in the dermis by decreasing the enzyme matrix metalloproteinase.

Conclusion

The science behind sunscreen technology and skin cancer prevention is by no means stagnant and while new challenges emerge regarding the potential dangers of ingredients, science will continue to forge ahead bringing new solutions and replacing old ones.

At the current time sunscreens remain our best solution to the prevention of skin cancer and photo-ageing.

References

  • The effect of sunscreen on vitamin D: a review*
    R.E. Neale iD ,
    1 S.R. Khan,1 R.M. Lucas iD ,
    2 M. Waterhouse,1 D.C. Whiteman iD 1 and C.M. Olsen iD 1
  • Population Health Department, QIMR Berghofer Medical Research Institute, 300 Herston Rd, Herston, QLD, 4006, Australia
  • 2 National Centre for Epidemiology and Population Health, Australian National University, Australia
  • Linked Editorial: Wolf. Br J Dermatol 2019; 181:881–882.

  • High-SPF sunscreens (SPF $ 70) may provide
    ultraviolet protection above minimal recommended
    levels by adequately compensating for lower
    sunscreen user application amounts.
    Hao Ou-Yang, PhD,a Joseph Stanfield, MS,b Curtis Cole, PhD,c Yohini Appa, PhD,a and Darrell Rigel, MDd
    Los Angeles, California; Winston Salem, North Carolina; Skillman, New Jersey; and New York, New York

  • Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation: A review of tinted sunscreens
    Alexis B. Lyons, MD,a Carles Trullas, MSc,b Indermeet Kohli, PhD,a Iltefat H. Hamzavi, MD,a and
    Henry W. Lim, MDa
    Detroit, Michigan; and Barcelona, Spain

  • DNA repair enzymes in sunscreens and their impact on
    photoageing—A systematic review.
    Hanna Luze1,2 | Sebastian Philipp Nischwitz1,2 | Iris Zalaudek3 | Robert Müllegger4 |
    Lars Peter Kamolz1,2

  • Review of environmental effects of oxybenzone and other sunscreen active ingredients.
    Samantha L. Schneider, MD, and Henry W. Lim, MD
    Detroit, Michigan
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Troubleshoot Your Sunscreen

With summer in full swing, we thought this would be a great time to share some of our helpful tips for keeping your skin well protected from those damaging rays.

Seriously… there are very few reasons not to wear sunscreen, and we thought we would share the
complaints we have heard numerous times, with our recommended solutions.

1. I DON’T LIKE TO WEAR SUNSCREEN BECAUSE IT LEAVES A WHITE RESIDUE ON MY SKIN 
The “white cast” from sunscreen comes from the physical UV filters, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
Newer sunscreens are formulated with microfine particles of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide which don’t leave a white residue.
Some sunscreens contain smart colour adaptive particles that blend with most skin tones.

We recommend:
SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50 which is a broad-spectrum protective fluid with a weightless matte finish.
Or SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50 with translucent colour spheres to enhance your natural skin tone. It’s also water resistant for up to 40 minutes.

2. WEARING SUNSCREENS GIVE ME BREAKOUTS
Oily or cream formulation sunscreens can occlude the pores and cause acne breakouts. Go for ultrafluid sunscreens or those advertised as “non-comedogenic”.

We recommend:
La Roche Posay Anthelios XL 50+ Ultrafluid provides sun effective protection but with a soft, non-greasy light texture suitable for normal to combination skin.
Or SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50 offers broad spectrum sun protection with a sheer mattifying texture that is ideal for sensitive, rosacea-prone and post-procedure skins.

3. MY SKIN BECOMES SHINY WHEN I USE SUNSCREEN 
Mattifying or dry touch sunscreens contain ingredients that absorb oil on the skin surface leaving a matte finish throughout the course of the day. This is perfect for those with an oily skin or a humid environment.

We recommend:
SkinCeuticals Physical Matte UV Defense SPF 50 which offers maximum broad spectrum protection in a comfortable oil absorbing base with colour adapting tint.
Or Heliocare 360 Gel oil free contains antioxidant formula Fernblock FC and Bioshield technology in a unique oil free dry touch formulation. It protects against damage from UVA/UVB, infrared and visible light.

4. MY SKIN IS TOO SENSITIVE FOR SUNSCREEN
Sensitive or eczema-prone skin can develop irritation and itchiness with the application of sunscreen. It is mainly the chemical filters or added ingredients in the sunscreen that can cause contact allergy.
If you tend to have a sensitive skin or suffer from rosacea or eczema try mineral sunscreens which are chemical filter free.

We recommend:
Heliocare 360 Mineral. An innovative mineral fluid ideal for sensitive, acne-prone skin types, atopic dermatitis, post-procedure use and children.

5. I DON’T REAPPLY SUNSCREEN DURING THE DAY AS IT WILL MESS UP MY MAKE-UP
Solution 1
Brush on powder sunscreens are available in different shades to suit your skin.
Simply reapply over your make up as you would powder.

We recommend:
Colorescience® Sunforgettable® brushes are a unique self-dispensing powder sunscreen that make re-application simple throughout the day.
These are one of the few effective SPF products that can be applied over make-up.

Solution 2
Tinted sunscreen or sunscreen ‘make-up’ compacts.
Some sunscreens are conveniently available in different shades to blend easily with your skin tone, making them suitable to double up as make-up and easy to reapply.

We recommend:
Heliocare Gelcream which comes in brown and light shades Or Heliocare Compacts oil-free, which are also perfect to throw in your handbag.

6. I DON’T WEAR SUNSCREEN ON MY FACE BECAUSE IT MAKES MY EYES BURN
Sunscreens may run into the eyes with sweating, causing burning and irritation.
Try sunscreens with safe eye technology.

We recommend:
ISDIN Fotoprotector Fusion Water SPF 50+ is a unique high protection facial sunscreen that is quickly absorbed into the skin providing an invisible layer of silky, matte protection. Safe-Eye Technology ensures it does not sting the eyes, making it perfect for cycling, running and other sports.

7. IT’S DIFFICULT TO REAPPLY SUNSCREEN AFTER BEING IN THE WATER OR ON SWEATY SKIN 
It can be bothersome to completely dry your skin after a swim, or to properly reapply your sunscreen during sport.
Try sunscreen that can be effectively applied to damp or wet skin.

We recommend:
ISDIN Fotoprotector® Transparent Spray Wet Skin is a unique and revolutionary water-friendly sunscreen. It can be applied directly to wet or dry skin without the white emulsion effect derived from oils found in most sunscreens.

8. IT’S TOO LATE TO USE SUNSCREEN AS I ALREADY HAVE SUN DAMAGE
It is never too late to start protecting your skin! If you already have sun damage there is now a solution for you as well. New sunscreen technology includes DNA repair enzymes to help prevent and treat sun damage.

We recommend:
Heliocare 360 AK FLUID contains unique key ingredients Fernblock FC and Roxisomes  prevent to repair DNA damage caused by solar radiation.
It is an elegant oil free formulation that feels light on the skin.
Or ISDIN Eryfotona AK-NMSC with Repairsomes to prevent DNA damage caused by sun exposure

So, this season, whilst enjoying the warm summer days, there is no excuse not to take the best care of your skin and limit sun damage by using the right products – all available on www.skinsmart.co.za. Happy Holidays!

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What does SPF mean?

SPF or sun protection factor is a measure of protection against only UVB.
An SPF of 30 means that you will be able to stay in the sun 30 times longer without burning, than you would be able to without wearing the sunscreen.

This does not equate to 30 min, and most importantly is different for each person, as we all burn at different rates depending on our skin type.
SPF is measured in a test environment which is nothing like real life.
It does not take into account sweating, environmental factors and the varying application by the sunscreen user. In a test environment sunscreen is applied very thickly, at 2mg of sunscreen per square centimeter. The quantity that is actually applied by people is closer to 0.5mg per square centimeter. So we are never really getting the same protection as on the label.

While it is true that SPF15 filters out 93.3% of UVB, SPF30 96.7% and SPF50 98.3%, making it seem that there is very little benefit in using the higher SPF, one needs to consider that only the amount of UV light reaching your skin is important. If you look at it this way then SPF 15 allows 6.7% of UVB to reach your skin while SPF 50 only allows 1.7% of UVB.

Dermatologist associations worldwide recommend you wear at least an SPF of 30.

SPF says nothing about the UVA cover of a sunscreen. There is at present no universally applied measure of UVA protection. Look for UVA with a circle around it on your sunscreen bottle. This denotes high UVA protection.

A final word is that we must remember that 80% of sun exposure is incidental and happens during the course of our day to day life, while we are not actively “lying down to tan”. UVA penetrates through windows and causes sun damage without causing sunburn.

If you find that you are getting sunburned, and notice the increasing appearance of “sun spots”, you are getting more exposure than you thought and need to re-look at your sun protection measures.

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Sun protection – how to stay safe and when to worry

UVB(ultraviolet B), UVA (ultraviolet A) and visible light make up a small, yet significant portion of the electromagnetic spectrum of light entering the earths atmosphere.

UVB causes us to burn while UVA, which has a longer wavelength, penetrates deeper into the skin. It does not cause sunburn, but is most significant in causing photo-ageing (ageing from the sun) and skin cancer. Photo-ageing and skin cancer are both consequences of excessive cumulative sun exposure and are almost always talked about together.

Sunlight is certainly not all bad, and generally induces a sense of well-being, decreases the appetite, improves libido and assists with the synthesis of vitamin D. We also use controlled light sources of UVB and UVA to treat a range of skin conditions like psoriasis and eczema.

The harmful effects of UV light can be divided into:
Acute (short term) and Chronic (long term effects).
Acute exposure to UVB causes sunburn which damages the DNA of our skin cells. Acute exposure to UVA suppresses the immune system in our skin which protects us against skin cancer and skin infections.
Chronic exposure to UVA causes skin ageing and both UVA and UVB cause skin cancer.
Compare the skin on sun exposed areas of your body to non sun exposed skin if you would like to see the added effect of photo-ageing to the normal process of ageing, which we call chronological ageing.
Features of photo-ageing include wrinkles, sagging skin, yellowing of the skin, pigmentation, freckles, broken veins and easy bruising.
Solar (actinic) keratosis, basal cell cancer, squamous cell cancer and melanoma are examples of precancerous and cancerous lesions.

While moderate and responsible exposure to the sun is good for your well-being, it is not possible to tan without damaging skin cells, leading to accelerated ageing, and increasing your risk of skin cancer.

Tips for sun protection
1.Minimise your exposure to direct sunlight and ensure that you never allow yourself to burn. Always seek the shade if you have to be outdoors. In general, peak UV exposure is between 11am to 3pm, but this varies with the season and location.
2. Wear a wide brimmed hat, sun protective clothing and sunglasses. Covering up is the best protection from the sun.
3. Wear sunscreens on areas that cannot be covered.
Apply sunscreen, liberally, evenly and repeatedly.
Apply sunscreen 30 min before you leave the house and reapply every 2-4 hours especially after sweating or swimming.

Sunscreens past and present.
Sunscreen technology has come a long way since the greasy, cosmetically unacceptable formulations that made you sticky and grey.
Sunscreens come in creams, lotions, sprays, milks, oils and make up compacts. They are available in tinted, non tinted and sheer forms.
The sunscreen industry has made it virtually impossible for you not to find a sunscreen you will be happy with as the worldwide consensus is the best sunscreen for you is the one that you will wear!

Sunscreen active ingredients are divided into categories of physical and chemical blockers. These protect against different wavelengths of light in the spectrum and are often found in combination to ensure maximum protection and stability of the product.

Physical blockers, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have broad spectrum cover and are suitable for children and sensitive skins.
Older sunscreens only protected against UVB, while the newer sunscreens almost always cover UVB and UVA.