Category: Ingredients

All you need to know about the Collagen craze.

written by Dr Kesiree Naidoo

Before we begin, what is collagen?

Why is it important and why is there a sudden surge of interest in collagen?

Collagen is a protein composed of three chains of amino acids, wound together in a tight triple helix. Each of these chains are over 1400 amino acids long and form ‘ropes’ that strengthen the tendons and sheets that support our skin and internal organs. Collagen provides structure to our bodies, protects and supports the softer tissues and connects those tissues to the skeleton.

There are many different types of collagen in the human body and at least 25% of the body consists of collagen. Each type of collagen has a particular function in the body. Collagen type 1, 2 and 3 make up 80-90% of the collagen in the body.

Type 1 Collagen is considered to be the strongest and the most abundant type of collagen that is found in tendons, ligaments, organs and the dermis of the skin. It is very important for wound healing and gives skin its strength and firmness. 

Type 2 Collagen primarily helps build cartilage and connective tissue. The health and function of our joints depends on type 2 collagen.

Type 3 Collagen is usually found with type 1 and is a major component of the extracellular matrix that makes up our organs and skin. It also helps give skin its firmness, forms part of the walls of blood vessels and is an important component of the heart tissue. 

Type 4 Collagen has the important job of forming the basement membrane of the skin and the epithelial tissue that surrounds organs, muscles, fat, nerves and blood vessels. In the skin the basement membrane lies between the epidermis and dermis and forms a protective barrier to the outside environment. 

So why the big fuss?

As we age the collagen in our body, including the skin, degrades and deteriorates by at least 1% annually. This is due to various intrinsic factors like genetics, cellular and metabolic processes and hormones, as well as extrinsic factors like excessive light exposure, radiation, chemicals, toxins and pollution.

Collagen supplementation is relatively new, and was initially met with scepticism as collagen is a protein and it is still not clear how an oral collagen can bypass the digestive system to be available where it is needed. But slowly the critics including myself are being convinced that while it is still not clear how it works, collagen supplementation may be possible. Certainly, the evidence is growing and the results are visible in my practice.

It is becoming apparent that starting collagen supplements from as early as age 30 will help slow down this degeneration.

What is the difference between a protein and peptide?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids which are the building blocks of proteins.

A chain of less than 100 amino acids is called a peptide while a longer chain is called a protein eg. collagen.

Does topical collagen benefit the skin ?

The skin being external is in a unique position to benefit from both topical applications as well as oral supplements.

The tricky thing is that collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin topically and reach the dermis. The skincare industry has instead focused on Ingredients that can ‘boost’ collagen production in the dermis. Topical anti-oxidants, retinoids , signaling peptides and carrier peptides have been shown to enhance the skin’s own production of collagen by acting as messengers that stimulate collagen production pathways. 

Additionally, hyaluronic acid which is a component of the dermal matrix in which collagen fibres lie can be applied topically with some demonstrable benefit. 

Hyaluronic Acid acts as a sponge which draws water to it and plumps up the epidermis to make the skin look plumper, hydrated and less wrinkled. Hyaluronic Acid also promotes healthy collagen by keeping the dermal collagen hydrated and nourished. 

Signal peptides also known as matricins or collagen stimulators are important for wound healing. But some are also antioxidants, anti-inflammatory and pigment regulating.

Signal peptides slow the ageing process by stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts leading to increased production of collagen and elastin in the skin. They also inhibit the breakdown of collagen and elastin.

Carrier Peptides in the skin transport trace elements like copper and manganese which are important for wound healing and collagen synthesis.

Copper Tripeptide is the most well-known and best studied carrier peptide which also functions as a signal peptide. Copper Tripeptide is a versatile ingredient in skincare as it has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. It aids in regeneration of new skin and improvement in wrinkles and skin moisture.

Some of our favourite topical collagen boosting products are: 

• Neostrata Firming Collagen Booster

• SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel 

• SkinCeuticals HA Intensifier

Should you take oral collagen supplements?

Oral collagen supplementation is usually in the form of hydrolyzed (broken down) collagen. Most collagen supplements are derived from high protein foods like beef, pork and fish, respectively called bovine, porcine or marine collagen.

To aid oral collagen supplementation, collagen proteins undergo a process called enzymatic hydrolysis breaking down the large collagen protein into water soluble, easily digestible and easily absorbable peptides and amino acids. 

Peptides may be oligopeptides, tripeptides or dipetides depending on how the collagen is broken down. Further these peptides are made of predominantly amino acids proline, glycine and hydroxyproline. 

Some argue that you could supplement your collagen by simply increasing your protein intake or making a nutrient rich bone broth to add to your meals. Oral collagen supplementation seems to be a hassle free, quick and effective way to increase your collagen. In addition to this other vitamins and minerals like vitamin C, copper and manganese which are essential for collagen production may also be supplemented. 

Oral collagen has various emerging benefits for the body. It has been reported to improve hair growth, strengthen nails and assist with joint problems, whilst plumping up the skin. When oral collagen is used in conjunction with topical collagen boosting products this enhances the skin’s natural production of collagen.

Oral collagen supplements come in various forms ie. liquid, powder or capsules.

Absortion varies according to the formulation. The jury is still out regarding which form has the best absorption and bioavailability. Choose a product that you prefer to ensure that you take it regularly and are able to reap the benefits. 

Dr Kesiree Naidoo recommends:

Proactive Liquid Collagen. It comes in two flavours, strawberry and lemon and contains Vitamin C, amino acids like Proline, Glycine and Arginine and Hyaluronic Acid. All the things that you need to enhance, optimise and activate collagen production. 

This month we have also launched the Beauty Network Collagen powder which can be added to a smoothie or coffee.

As dermatologists we would like a vast amount of scientific evidence to validate our recommendations to our patients. This is not always possible as evidence takes time to accumulate and emerges with more use of the supplement.

There are numerous studies that demonstrate that oral collagen supplements do reach the skin with measurable benefit. The problem is that there are so many products, not all of them are of the same quality and the studies reporting efficacy are not always of the product that is available . So we do need more evidence and we need some measure of the quality of the products that are available.

My advice is, that if the supplement is safe, you can certainly try it and hopefully become part of the growing evidence that collagen supplementation is possible and beneficial.

For further information or if you have any queries pop us an email at [email protected]

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• Resources : Oral Collagen Supplementation : A Systematic Review of Dermatological Applications
• Franchesca D. Choi BS R Ph, Calvin T. Sung BS, Margit L.W. Juhasz MD, Natasha Atanaskova Mesinkovska MD PhD.
• University of California, Irvine, Kaohsiung Medical University Taiwan, University of California Riverside School of Medicine.
• Nikita Jhawar BS1 / Jordan V. Wang MD, MBE, MBA2 / Nazanin Saedi MD2
• J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;001-3
• J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(1):9-16.

If you haven’t heard about the use of peptides in skin care products, we’re going to tell you what you’ve been missing. Peptides have come a long way and the new research about how they benefit skin is remarkable. Some of the information out there is overblown, but other aspects of peptides for skin deserve your attention.

Recently interest has increased about the functions of peptides in the skin and new research has uncovered how peptides can be used to slow or improve the visible signs of ageing. The cosmeceutical industry has focused on replicating these peptides and adding them to skincare formulations.

There are still many new peptides under investigation to asses their value as skincare ingredients, although the ability to add peptides to skincare to provide a measurable benefit is still a challenge.
Some problems faced are the sizes of the peptides which prohibit entry through the skin barrier, and their stability in skincare formulas.

What are peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids which are the building blocks of proteins.
A chain of less than 100 amino acids is called a peptide while a longer chain is called a protein.

Peptides are a very broad category encompassing a whole variety of structural and functional components that occur naturally in the body.
The most important function is probably as biological messengers, we call these bioactive peptides. Well known examples include insulin, a polypetide regulating blood sugar levels, and oxytocin which regulates childbirth and breastfeeding. There are many more peptides that help with communication between cells or ‘cell signaling’ to regulate vital body functions like wound healing, collagen and elastin synthesis, blood vessel production, immune function and pigment production. As skin ages there’s a decline in the quantity of peptides.

How do peptides work in the skin?
Peptides are responsible for ‘signaling’ or communication in the skin.
There are different categories of peptides with different functions. Some of these functions overlap and skin creams with peptides usually contain a mixture of different peptides.

Signal peptides are also known as matricins or collagen stimulators and are important for wound healing. But some are also antioxidant, anti inflammatory and pigment regulating.

Signal peptides slow the ageing process by stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts leading to increased production of collagen and elastin in the skin. They also inhibit the breakdown of collagen and elastin.
Clinical studies have shown that signal peptides improve the appearance of wrinkles and uneven texture, increase the skin’s elasticity and improve hyperpigmentation.

Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides prevent the movement of facial muscles reducing the wrinkling on the skin. This is similar to the effect of botulinum toxin (Botox). This group of peptides is still under investigation.

Carrier Peptides in the skin transport trace elements like copper and manganese which are important for wound healing and collagen synthesis.
Copper Tripeptide is the most most well known and best studied carrier peptide which also functions as a signal peptide. Copper Tripeptide is a versatile ingredient in skincare as it has antioxidant and anti inflammatory benefits. It aids in regeneration of new skin and improvement in wrinkles and skin moisture.

Individual peptides don’t function well on their own so they are added to skincare creams together with other peptides and various other active ingredients for optimal benefit.

As with any kind of skincare product, not everything is created equally, and it’s important be informed and aware of the different types of peptides so that they’ll prove most useful for your end game: vibrant, radiant, and healthy skin.

To find your perfect peptide product take our online skincare assessment here

Active ingredients in skincare products include Alphahydroxy acids, Polyhydroxy acids, Retinol, Vitamin C, Kojic Acid and Arbutin. They are found in varying concentrations in different grades of skincare products.

The concentrations of these ingredients are higher in a special category of skincare products called cosmeceuticals. These cosmeceutical ranges are typically only available in Dermatologist’s or Doctor’s rooms.

The majority of the products sold on Skinsmart fall into this category of cosmeceutical products with high concentrations of active ingredients. These active ingredient products need careful introduction to your skin, as they may cause irritation and sun sensitivity.

The high concentration of active ingredients in these products also mean that they have better results in targeting your skin concern, particularly anti-ageing.

The skin cells of the uppermost layer of the Epidermis, the stratum corneum (and the “glue” that holds them together) act as a natural barrier and defense system. It is difficult to achieve deep penetration of any topical product. But thanks to modern-day procedures, and product research, ingredient penetration can now be achieved. So take a brief look at how various methods are used to open up pathways and facilitate deeper penetration of active ingredients.

 

The skin cells of the uppermost layer of the Epidermis, the stratum corneum (and the “glue” that holds them together) act as a natural barrier and defense system. It is difficult to achieve deep penetration of any topical product. But thanks to modern-day procedures, and product research, ingredient penetration can now be achieved. So take a brief look at how various methods are used to open up pathways and facilitate deeper penetration of active ingredients.

1.Size of the molecule

Molecular structure is key to good penetration. This means that the size of the molecules used in topical ingredients must be smaller than the size of the opening of the pores of the skin, or the products will sit on the surface and not penetrate at all.

2. Delivery systems

Two main penetration enhancement ‘carriers’ used by top-rated product brands are

Liposomes and Nanoparticles. These molecules allow for enhanced transport across the various layers of the skin.

1. a) Liposomes are used to store water-soluble active ingredients allowing enhanced transport across the various layers of the skin.
2. b) Nanoparticles allow penetration of encapsulated active ingredients. These are excellent carriers for delivery of sunscreens, and Vitamins A and E.

3. Low pH

The skincare industry utilizes certain ingredients to great effect, because of their low pH. Examples of such ingredients are AHAs (alpha hydroxyl acids) and BHAs (beta- hydroxyl acids).

Your skin’s natural pH is between 4.5 and 5.5, which is slightly acidic. This acidic outer layer of your skin keeps bacteria and environmental pollution out and keeps lipids and moisture in. When a product’s pH is below your skin’s natural pH, the product is able to absorb easily in the deeper layers.

This is the exact principle that is used for in-clinic chemical skin peels. The pH of the AHAs or BHAs that are applied to the skin is very low, which allows for intense, yet controlled product penetration.

4. Hyaluronic acid

The skin is made up of 68 to 90 percent water, and craves hydration. A dehydrated skin will remove the water content of the skincare product, leaving the active ingredients without the liquid required to make the transfer to the lower layers. The use of natural moisturisers such as hyaluronic acid in your facial and home care products is key to good penetration.

5. Microneedlingis the latest technique in the delivery of actives into the skin. By using a microneedling device, temporary controlled trauma is caused to the skin, allowing active ingredients to be pushed to the deeper layers through the micro-channels that are created.

 

In summary, it is imperative to shop for skincare brands that ensure product penetration. Visit your clinician or therapist to book treatments such as skin peels and microneedling. In this way, you are sure to be getting the most out of your products and treatments for continued health of your skin, as well as management of your skin concerns.