The best anti ageing ingredients to use 25th Jul 2018 | By Kesiree Naidoo What ingredients should you look out for in anti ageing products? With ongoing research more and more molecules are proving beneficial. Here we talk about a few with the best evidence. Hydroxyacids Glycolic acid is part of the alpha hydroxy acid group. This acid is widely used for anti ageing skincare, but can also treat hyperpigmentation, acne and rough skin texture. How does Glycolic acid work within the skin? Glycolic acid penetrates the epidermis and help loosen the bonds that prevent dead skin cells from shedding. Glycolic acid has great exfoliating efficacy, but may also cause irritation and burning of the skin. Retinoids Retinoids are the gold standard anti-ageing ingredient and have been an integral part of a comprehensive anti ageing regimen for decades. Retinoids improve cell turnover and help repair damaged cells. In this way they help to even out dark marks/hyperpigmentation and assist in treating acne lesions. Increased cell turnover improves dullness and rough texture and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinoids also inhibit the production of collagenase thus slowing down the breakdown of collagen and promoting collagen production resulting in a firmer healthier-looking skin . With long term regular use you see renewed radiance, a remarkably smoother appearance, and a noticeable feeling of firmness. Though retinoids are generally applied at night, remember that they do sensitise your skin to sun, so it very important to wear a sunscreen in the daytime. Antioxidants The use of antioxidants prevents damage from free radicals related to photo ageing and other cellular processes. Antioxidants reduce oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals – unstable atoms that have an unpaired electron in their outermost shell. The antioxidants act by binding with the unstable electron and preventing attack on collagen, elastin and other elements of the skin’s architecture. Stem cells Stem cells are capable of self renewal. Their role is to replenish dying cells and regenerate damaged tissue. Studies show that topically applied stem cells activate regeneration of human stem cells, protect the cell from oxidative stress, and in this way decrease the appearance of wrinkles. Stem cells prevent premature skin ageing and assist with wound healing. Skincare products with stem cells help reverse pre existing damage and protect against further environmental assault. Hyaluronic acid This complex sugar is a natural substance that is found in the skin. Hyaluronic acid acts as the skin’s natural “super-sponge” locking in moisture for a plumper, softer and more supple skin. Hyaluronic acid has become quite a buzz word in the cosmetic industry over the past few years. The natural occurring form declines with ageing. It is therefore a key ingredient in skincare products to rejuvenate dehydrated skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. …And of course the number 1 anti ageing ingredient is sunscreen. No anti ageing regimen would be complete without optimal sun protection. Remember the best sunscreen is the one you are happy to use!